The bay where the front fuse run is located will not unlock.  The actuator was replaced and I fear (and pretty sure) that it has come loose and is not subject to being unlocked with either the key or the automatic key fob. When the key is inserted in the key slot that lock mechanism (that one can see) just turns freely without unlocking the bay door.  I have tried to push the pins that are located on both sides of the bay door with various types of items (strips cut from milk cartons etc. etc.) to no avail. I suppose that I can drill the lock out but really don't want to do that.  Thanks,
Denny Wagaman

I'm not sure that you haven't done everything you can do, Denny, aside from drilling out the lock to get some sort of access to the actuator mechanism.  If you do use a locksmith, be exceedingly careful about your choice, since there are a lot of syndicate-run (Russian) rings out there, with big ads in the yellow pages;  look for older military veteran types in the small buildings, or ask an experienced friend's recommendation.  Since no one answered your previous post on this subject, I reckon I'd give the guys at Beaver Coach Sales, Bend Service Center, a call and see if they have any other ideas: 1-800-843-2967.  They've likely been there, done that many times.

You might also check other Forums with a large member base and experience, such as FMCA, http://community.fmca.com/index.php?act=idx, the Monaco Owner's Forum, http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/, or Good Sam's RV.Net, http://www.rv.net/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/22.cfm.

Normally, though, you'll want to come here first for more "species specific" and other input.  I used to frequent RV.Net a lot, but got discouraged with their advertising and site quircks, and found the BAC Forum much more user friendly and comfortable.

-Joel

Be careful about drilling out the lock, because it sounds like the locking linkage has become disconnected from the lock cylinder. It may or may not give you access to the locking linkage to open the door.

Before I drilled out the lock, I would take one of the other bay doors apart enough to see just how the locking mechanism works and determine what probably came loose so that you will know how to proceed with the repair.

Gerald

I went out and studied the door frame, latch pins, latch blocks, and what the possibilities are. I opened the door and examined for possible access. What comes to mind after a hard look is to take a sabre saw or hole saw and cut an access port in the floor where you will be able to get to the backside of the latch and lock mechanism. I pressed on the floor panel and it gives redily meaning it is some form of thin fiberglass or plactic composite material. I felt underneath and did not feel any metal framing in the region of interest at least on my coach. My choice would be to use a marine O ring gasketed flange face access port. They are available from West Marine. The flange face should be sealed as you screw it down with a waterproof sealant. A six inch ABS port is available on this page for $20 and will provide future access if this ever happens again. http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=557  My early life of crime led me down this path....just kidding. Hope this helps.

Regards Ed

Denny
Think about it like you were unlatching the old push lock on a car door using a coat hangar.  Bend just so and just so etc.
If your door is like mine the pin goes behind a striker plate that attaches to the inside of the cabinet frame.  a thin piece of metal cut to a 90 like a "L" bracket but thinner and bent to a 45 just above the 90 might just slip around the door, past the frame and behind the striker.  A good twist should then push the pin back past the striker plate.  You may have to do this on both ends of the door.  Any hardware store could fix you up.
Sure hope this works, I "think" it would work on ours.
Best!!
Keith