My fridge whether on gas or electric does not cool while driving.  Works fine when stopped.

Can you provide a little more detail.  You haven't provided enough for anybody on this forum to be of much help.

What kind (brand and model) fridge?  What year and model of coach?  Will it run on both propane or electricity when your coach is parked for dry camping?  Will it work on propane when plugged into shore power?  What fuses have you checked? Is your inverter operating while you are driving?

It's been a couple years since we used our coach, but as I recall our refer's electric side won't run off the inverter;  refer electric functions only when plugged in or on generator - others here may chastise my memory .  If so, gas is the only option on the road, and some burner configurations are susceptible to the flame blowing out, and/or ignition failure, from vent door draft.  The fact that it works okay when stopped is a good indication of the cause, but as Bill says, we need more information from you - does the unit work okay on gas while stopped?  

If the flame is possibly being extinguished by vent drafts, then check to make sure the burner's gas/air mixing sleeve is properly adjusted, so the flame is cleanly blue without too much orange, and any vent draft is less likely to disturb the mix point.   You should also check that the metal cover over the burner itself is securely in place, so it works as intended and isn't letting gusts of air extinguish the flame.  Flame loss due to vent drafting on the road is not something one reads about on today's coaches, though it used to be a common complaint a decade or two ago.  I don't remember what the prescribed solutions were back then, and our old motor home never had the drafting problem;  then again, I did check the sleeve adjustment/flame and burner cover annually anyway, so maybe that's why.  

That said, if the sleeve and burner cover are properly adjusted, I'd assume one could devise a metal shield to divert stongly moving air away from the burner and mix flue, without depriving the mix of needed air for burning.   But I hope that isn't necessary here.

As an addendum, there is much controversy over whether the refer should be on while driving, and the topic has been covered in FMC magazine I believe.  There are safety valves that shut off the fuel on impact, and some gas valves are wired to shut off for awhile when the engine is turned off (for gas station safety).  Great unless you're in the station longer than the prescribed "off" time, and the burner fires up in the midst of gas fumes.  But many states have areas like tunnels, etc., where any flame is illegal and unsafe, just like gas stations.  Some say the best option is to turn the refer off before driving, since theoretically today's well-insulated refers can keep food cool and safe for many hours as long as the door(s) aren't opened too often.  Exchanging that slight inconvenience for maximum safety on the road and in gas stations is to them the best option.  Personally, in a hazardous situation or accident, I wouldn't want to be held liable, legally or emotionally, for any consequences of the refer being on when it didn't absolutely have to be.

-Joel

The fridge is a Norcold.  When parked it runs fine on gas or electric and works fine on gas when plugged in.  Inverter is on while driving, also had generator running while driving as it was very hot.  So fridge was operating on electric but still would not cool propertly. Someone said it could be a down draft in the vent but I don't know how to correct this. Also the two fans in the rear of the fridge seem to not run when it is really hot.  Don't know where there the temp. control for the fans is, as I would like trouble shoot this control.

One person I know with a newer Contessa chased this problem for a long time and it turned out to be a problem with pinching the propane hose when the slide was moved in for travel.
Mike

I think Tom has asked the question before, to no avail, about finding the temperature control for his refer fans.  I'm not up on those fans, or I would have tried to help.  Those that might be able to assist you still need more info, Tom -  Model and year of coach and perhaps the Norcold model number.

Filling in some Profile and/or Signature information on your Member Center page is beneficial, because then those that read your questions will automatically know something about your rig, and you don't have to remember to include it in questions  .

A possible cause for the no cooling while on the road is that the airflow over the refrigerator coils is decreased while on the road.  If the excess heat is not removed from the refrigerator coils, it will not cool properly.  Norcold has specific installation instructions on how the back of the refrigerator should be baffled for proper airflow through the lower vent, over the coils and out through the upper vent.

Good luck on chasing down the problem.

Thanks, I had a feeling that it had to be some sort of air circulation problem, I guess the only way to fix it is to pull the fridge as the access in the rear is too small.

Removed the roof vent cover and found proper baffles to be in place but with a lot of air space around baffle and fridge. Duct taped all spaces and will see if this helps. Norcold recomends that all areas between top and sides of fridge be insulated to insure that all air circulates over the cooling fins and out the vent.