3M front film is showing signs of crazing, Talked to 3M and was informed that the life of the film is 5 years and that to remove and to replace it, the front would have to be repainted. So tell me.  Why did I have Beaver install it, when I could have waited and just had it repainted after 5 years of road damage.

Sales, 3M pulled one on a lot of industry and owners IMO. Getting it off is a real pain and if you do not it looks like dodo and manufacturers are still ofering it or making it standard. In high humidity FL it really looks bad with all the black mold under the crazing.

Apparently when factory applied, the cap's paint hasn't had time to properly cure, so the film and the paint/clearcoat essentially bond.  By the same token, but conversly, applying it to uncured paint can mean the paint never cures properly at all, the film can unbond, and it and the paint will deteriorate more quickly.  In theory, if your film was applied quite some time after the paint, there is a better chance of removing it unscathed with a carefully used heat gun.

When I asked Beaver Coach Sales in Bend about the film's slightly peeling edges here and there on our relatively new coach a couple years back, their paint guru, Bruce, used a razor knife with great finesse to simply cut away the peeled sections.  As those who have been fortunate enough to work with him know, Bruce is extremely particular about detail, and has his technique down pat, such that he cut through the film without nary a hint of a mark in the underlying paint.  If anyone can give you a straight-up honest opinion about front-cap films, it is Bruce;  you may or may not like what you hear, but the truth is what it is.  He'll let you know whether it can be sucessfully removed, and which is best - new film or new paint every 5 years.

-Joel

Does anybody apply a good protectant (UV type to help protect the 3M covering?  I use DriWash & Guard products to clean and protect my coach as well as the 3M covering.  I am hoping that it will help the deterioration.  Although I am not a distributor I probably should be as I am a great proponent of their product.  I have used it on both of my Beavers and it is easy to use and makes the coach look like it is glass!  

I use Thetford Premium Protect and Shine while on the road.  I've followed Monaco's recommendations, washing with Dawn, and using a Porter-Cable #7424 electric polisher to apply Maguire's wax once annually.  

But on the road, about once every week or two I quickly rinse clean the front cap, let dry, and spray/wipe on the Protect and Shine.  It reinforces the UV protection of the Maguire's, and only takes a few minutes to do since when done often, bugs and dirt come right off.

-Joel

I have actually used Turtle wax swirl remover with a buffer and all the crazing and scratches dissapears for a while but reappears in a couple of weeks.

The 3M film above the windshield developed spots of mold under it.  I considered removing it myself, but was concerned about sliding forward off the roof or tipping the ladder. After months of pondering, I decided to have it removed.  Darren Coffell at Driving Force in Bend, OR removed it in a couple of hours.  The paint looks fine and a lot cleaner than it did.  He said he could probably remove the whole front film, which is crazed and reinstall new film without destroying the paint.  The latest generation of 3M film is more clear and resists the crazing effect.  That will take more pondering on my part.  If you want to let him help you, you can phone him at 541-385-5049.

Larry

Did you happen to see what method Darren used to remove it. Did he use a heat gun, steam or chemical?

Daren used a chemical, like adhesive remover, a heat gun, a piece of Corian shaped like a chisel, and lots of elbow grease.  After it was removed, he had to remove all the sticky adhesive fro the entire front of the coach, because it runs down.  Then wash all of it with soap and water to remove the chemical.  Then wash his driveway (not mine).  It was worth it to me to have him do it.  He has the tools, chemicals and knowledge, and experience.

Larry

I finnally decided to try and remove the front film from my Monterey. I actually used a pair of pliers to pull the film sideways, after lifting a corner of the film. I found that it is easier to lift in direct sunlight. It is harder to peel it, when the  weather is cooler.  A heat gun doesen't work well, as it soften the film too much and it seperates too easily. It takes a lot of patience, as sometimes it only lifts in small sections.  I spent about 6 hours removing it.  It is also hard to remove the adhesive. I used goof off and laquer thinner to remove the adhisive. It takes a lot of scrubbing to remove adhesive. Thank god that I didn't lift any paint in the processes. Good luck.

Thanks for the post Tom. I have heard all kinds of rumors over the years and was afraid to attempt to remove it. Glad to hear that it is possible to be removed without destroying the paint. I'll be home in April in case you get near my neighborhood. Mine is faded and needs to be removed on the 03 Monterey. It was installed July 04. CHEERS!