Paul

Got the email.  Thanks

Larry and all,

The removal of the panel was a pain in the butt. The connections on the backside are many and in my case the panel did not have enough plumbing slack in the pipes to allow it to tip out enough to have reasonable access. The worst cause of this, in my case, was that the valve manifolds that were attached with metal strapping and screws and nuts that did not have any reasonable access.

If the manifolds could be released from the frontside that would have made all the difference in the world regarding this job. My recommendation would be to build some manifold mounts that can be released with sheet metal screws from the frontside and install those the first time you remove the panel.  Photos of my mounts are attached. The manifolds are wire tied to the mounts.

I also marked everything back in the jungle of wires and pipes, with a sharpie, that needed to be disconnected to pull the panel. That makes it clear when you are peeking behind the panel with one eye or a mirror what needs to be disconnected. If I was at home when I had to remove the panel I would have modified it and had it cut just below the bottom manifold valve, horizontally, so that a smaller panel could come off to gain some access to the sensors and sewer valves without pulling the full Monty.

The message is, if you get in there, spend a little time to make your life easier next time around. Hope this helps.

Later Ed

Good job Ed, thanks for the photos and ideas. It sure seems this panel could have been designed much better. I really don't want to get into it but I am sure I will have to one day to fix something. I had the dump valves replaced last spring and the RV service place that did the workvalso replaced my hoses while they were in there. Hopefully they put some longer ones in there.

Larry,

The God's may be with you and all the components not fail and the plumbing fittings all remain tight and not leak but there is a lot going on in there so a gremlin may just get in. If so it is just patience and persistence to gain access....

My blackwater valve failed while on the road and we ordered one and dealt with it while at a relatives house in CA two years ago. What I learned from the valve manufacturer is that the motor and shaft portion needed to be mounted above a horizontal plane and verical was preferred. The shaft area of the valve is prone to getting contamination in it and sticking over time if mounted on a horizontal plane which my original valve was. Luckily the tank design had just enough clearance to install the new valve in a vertical plane. I have not had to be back in there for two years now. I would guess that the valve mounting issue would have been communicated and resolved by the 2005 models.

One thing I did not mention regarding those manifold mounts is that the diagram dimensions for the blocks will likely vary a little by manifold and panel design. The diagram would make a good starting point for a test block. The metal straps are made from aluminum stock that I picked up at Home Depot.

I also cut several strips of 1/2 inch thick stick on weather strip where the manifold rested against the manifolds to eliminate rubbing and maintain some tension for a "soft mount". Your factory mounting of the manifolds and panel may give you better access than mine did and eliminate the need for all this.....hope that is the case and that you never have to find your way behind the "Panel Of Doom".

Later Ed

Thanks Ed, the new valves are working great so far but just recently the opened/closed indicating light on the push switch started staying on all the time on the gray valve.  As long as the valve works I can live with the light. Thanks again for all the great info!

Ed,

I just wanted to say thanks to you for posting the pics.  They confirm that you truly do think out of the box.  What a great way to re-mount the manifolds!  I am sorry to say that I had already reinstalled the same lame strap holders and then closed up the panel but I did realize that, in my case anyway, there is an area on the panel that I can cut an access hole if/when I have to change another sensor.  My panel is some kind of glossy white plastic that can easily be cut, not like your stainless panel which would be  difficult to cut in place.

Paul

Paul,

Happy to try and help. My goal is to make life easier and make changes to better enjoy our time with the coach. My panel would have to be sheared or cut while off the coach. Maybe next time around....

Stainless looks pretty but having an easier panel material to rework would be nice. I have not been able to rationalize why that panel was not built and orderd in two pieces by Monaco or Safari.  The expense is two extra screws and one shear cut....life would have been so much easier for us all.

Later Ed

I have a problem with the black tank reading. It started reading a false number a while ago when it is actually empty, i.e. 13-17 gals (reading varies). The reading does increase as the volume in the tank increases and when emptying it drops down to this new "empty" level. I have used the black tank flush a number of times, even closing the drain to flush/fill up to about 50%. Nevertheless when I open the drain the tank empties but monitor still shows approximately 25% full.

I have been reading this thread and while useful, I am not sure if it is directly applicable. I have not tried switching lines to see if it makes a difference - should I try this?

Any other suggestions.

Jeff

Jeff,

It sounds to me almost what happened to me.  I did switch the lines to the actuators and this showed me that the sensor in the tank was bad.  I suggest you locate the actuators and do the same.  In our 03 Contessa they are located on the passenger side just aft of the pass thru bay.  I had to remove 2 screws and let the panel tilt forward and I found the actuators on the back side of the panel.

Good luck,

Paul

Thanks Paul,

Will go have a look and try switching the line.

Jeff

Ed,

Yours is very similar or maybe identical to the panel on my 98 Marquis, so I wonder if you have any pictures of the 'in behind' area that are farther back towards the engine from the manifold?  

Also, I see you replaced the power video reel with a standard wall fitting - were you replacing the RG59 with RG6? If so, could you describe what was involved?

Finally, you have what look to be hose x hose 90's on the two water connections - did you change anything inside or just screw them on?  My flush hose connection leaks, so I'm thinking a fixed 90 might be a good replacement.

Thanks

Jim

Jim,

The video reel was bypassed and removed. The RG59 coax that went to the reel was coupled to the wallplate female F connector. There are higher quality F connectors rated for satellite TV installs. Many are color coded with a blue dielectric as opposed to white. Some wallplates with an older F connector you may want to change out given some campgrounds ocassionally have digital channels along with the analog. It is not practical to change out the RG59 in our RVs so that wiring stayed.

As far as the 90s, I just screwed them on to eliminate the hose bends and make the hose runs a straight shot. These won't solve a leaking problem if the fitting or washer is bad. I have found that Ace hardware has various qualities of hose washers on a cardboard card and the best ones (most expensive) did a better job. Can't remember for sure but I think they were like a real rubber material and black. I had trouble getting a good seal with others.

This is what I have for photos of the area behind the panel.

Later Ed

Thanks, Ed. That was helpful.

Jim