I've been having a spot of trouble fueling at Flying J truck lanes.  Seems that I can't even run the pump on the 1st notch of the handle without it "spitting" back and closing the fuel flow.  Is this a venting problem??  I even considered opening the other door to help vent air.

Thanks.

Dick

I have the same issue and have simply accepted it as normal since it's been this way since I bought the coach.  

Trace your fill pipe and check for narrowing at the bends. Our Drivers site fill very slow becaus of some kinks. We are thinking of putting elbows at the bend to avoid sharp bends.

Mine has the same issue I just open the other fuel door and cap it seems to help.

'99 Pat does the same thing.  It's a pain and some pumps won't even stay on the 1st pump detent so I have to hold it the whole time.  I've already replaced my fill hose.  There are no sharp bends or kinks.  I've tried opening the other side.  Nothing seems to help.  Maybe it's the horizontal design of the fill pipe itself or the fact that the hose has such a shallow pitch as it runs to the tank?

I have had the same problem and replaced the drivers side hose. Not much better.  However, I find that if I open the pass side, put the nozzle in only as little as possible and squeeze slowly, I can generally get to the first detent and them I am ok. I dont have to stand there and hold the nozzle.  I only have had the problem with the bigger truck nozzles.  I think the key is not inserting the nozzle in very far.  Only enough to make sure that the nozzle will catch and not fall out.

I think that you will all find that the vent hose from the top of the tank is to small to carry enough air for the large high flow truck nozzles. Opening the fill cap on the other side will only help until the fuel level in the tank is above the filler hose inlet which is about 1/2 tank on most coaches. Above that point, the filler hose will no longer vent air from the tank. To increase the vent flow rate, you will have to remove the tank and enlarge the vent hose and anti spill valve.  

One serious note of caution though, if you remove the filler cap on both sides when filling the tank, and both filler necks are not at identical height (most coaches are not), and you are pumping fuel into the higher one, the fuel can and will run out the open lower filler neck when the tank is full causing a dangerous situation.

Gerald

I tried opening the other fill one time, and as soon as the diesel got above the tank opening, as Gerald mentioned, it blew out the path of least resistance, and came out the open fill.

Gerald,
Where does that vent hose terminate?  Is there a filter screen on it (like on boats)?  I've found salt clogged vents many times that caused this on the water.  While I don't see salt an issue, perhaps road dirt, etc or has this always been an issue with Beavers even when new?

J

I had a similar problem with a speedboat that had the fill on the foredeck and an S shaped hose to the tank.  Generated enough splash to trip the auto stop, almost every time.  I removed that hose and plumbed in one with the bends further down. solved the problem.  If you can get a longer strait piece up top, might help.

I pull the nozzle out as far as I can and still make it stay in by its self.  There is a point where fuel will spatter back out at me which is my indication that it is too far out.  Usually full open is too fast but the first or second notch often work fine.  I do sometimes open the opposite fill but cannot really say that that helps.  

This is a common problem with most motor homes due to the difficulty in putting the filler much higher than the floor.  The basic design requires that the top of the tank be directly under the floor and the manufacturer has difficulty dealing with a filler much above the floor due to aesthetics and space utilization.

I have the same problem. I find "aiming" the nozzle to the rear helps. Flow seems to increase once the filling hose gets wet.  Diesel foams up easily which blocks   venting  .Try an additive like Cetane Boost which seems to help  stop foaming. I also dose with Biobor to keep algae at bay. Keeping the flow steady at truck stops with the high delivery systems is not easy . I use all the above and set the nozzle on the first detent........the  $$$$ dont add up so fast !!!

We have all the same issues but have made some small inprovements. One,  we made sure the small vent hose did not droop or sag as it goes from the filler to the tank. Two, we always level left to right because we always open the oppisite filler cap. (we have air leveling)

If you use your fuel cap as a wedge under the trigger, it will hold the valve open about half the first click, and fill your tank.  It may take longer, but you do not have to hold it.  I hold the trigger up high enough to screw in the cap under the trigger, and release the trigger.  You are not required to use their step notch mechanism.  With the filler hose entering the tank half way down the tank, it takes gravity pulling down on the fuel in the filler hose to push the fuel up into the tank.  It is a dumb design and we just have to adapt to it.

Larry

Quoted from cnlshirk

If you use your fuel cap as a wedge under the trigger, it will hold the valve open about half the first click, and fill your tank.  It may take longer, but you do not have to hold it.  I hold the trigger up high enough to screw in the cap under the trigger, and release the trigger.  You are not required to use their step notch mechanism.  With the filler hose entering the tank half way down the tank, it takes gravity pulling down on the fuel in the filler hose to push the fuel up into the tank.  It is a dumb design and we just have to adapt to it.

Larry

Just remember that it won't stop by itself, so it may take a few fuel spills to learn to keep on top of it. I don't use this trick, because I know I'd wander off and clean the windshield or something and come back to $50 of diesel running down the drain.