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  <title>Technical Support</title>
  <link>http://forum.bacrallies.com/</link>
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  <language>en</language>
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   <title>Onan 8000QD coolant</title>
   <link>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328674141/</link>
   <comments>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328674141/#num1</comments>
   <description><![CDATA[I have just completed a coolant drain-flush-refill on my coach. I have 2.5 gallons of CAT ELC left over. It is the 50/50 mix, 40-49% ethylene glycol, a few percent other things and 50% water. Onan calls for either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. Does the CAT ELC meet this standard? I cannot find any reference from Onan re: astm D4985 etc that come on the coolant bottle itself. The ELC has embitterment? What is that?<br /><br />Is this OK? Does anyone else have CAT ELC in their generator. Sure would like to carry just one coolant around.<br /><br />Ken Sair 2007 Contessa]]></description>
   <pubDate>Tue, 7 Feb 2012 23:09:01</pubDate>
   <dc:creator>Ken Sair</dc:creator>
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   <title>loose tiles</title>
   <link>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328661976/</link>
   <comments>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328661976/#num1</comments>
   <description><![CDATA[I have a few loose tiles in our Kitchen and Entry of our 06 Pat. We have also seen grout breaking out ion some of these area, I am sure that we have at least 2-3 tiles that are loose. My concern of course is that we fix them before we break them. Has anyone done a repair on the tile floors? I was told on my last stop in Bend(Ken) that this repair would require special tile cement and grout<br /><br />I think I could do the job but am not sure what in below the tile, is the tile just put on the the sub floor with a thin set? or is the tile on a cement wafer board? <br />If the tile is on the sub floor perhaps some type of mastic cement would be better?<br /><br />Thanks for any member input.&nbsp;&nbsp;]]></description>
   <pubDate>Tue, 7 Feb 2012 19:46:16</pubDate>
   <dc:creator>Jerry Carr</dc:creator>
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   <title>Gas Struts</title>
   <link>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328642112/</link>
   <comments>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328642112/#num1</comments>
   <description><![CDATA[Sometimes an error works out better than one expects.<br /><br />After having my head dinged way to many times by the bay doors falling I finnally broke down and order 4 new gas springs from SPD.&nbsp;&nbsp;Once they arrived I realized I ordered the wrong ones.&nbsp;&nbsp;Meant to get the GSNI-5300-70 and ordered the GSEL model instead.&nbsp;&nbsp;The big differance is that the GSEL has a latch mechanism that holds the door open even if the spring fails.<br /><br />Ended up putting one new spring on four doors and even with one original weak(er) spring still in play, works like a champ.&nbsp;&nbsp;Doors will slowly close by themselves once the catch is released but won't slam.<br /><br />Eventually, I'll get 4 more of the correct kind but right now they work almost perfectly.<br /><br />Just thought I would share.<br /><br />In the attached pic, the release is the big yellow/orange tab in the center.]]></description>
   <pubDate>Tue, 7 Feb 2012 14:15:12</pubDate>
   <dc:creator>bluwtr49</dc:creator>
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   <title>Lifting Veneer</title>
   <link>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328575288/</link>
   <comments>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328575288/#num1</comments>
   <description><![CDATA[A half dozen of my cabinet doors had some edge lifting of the burl veneer. Anywhere from 1/2 inch in to several inches lifted, usually on one of the smaller veneer panel ends, as opposed to the longer dimension.<br /><br />I just wanted to pass along that Gorrilla makes a white water based wood glue. It is type 2 good for both indoor and outdoor applications. It is a bit more viscous than Titebond and therefor stays in place better and tends to not squeeze out as much excess glue while clamping (as long as you use what is about the right amount to wet the surfaces)The clamp time is 30 to 45 minutes and the excess cleans off well.<br /><br />Thought I would pass along a thumbs up on this product given the ease of use and holding power.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /><br />Later Ed]]></description>
   <pubDate>Mon, 6 Feb 2012 19:41:28</pubDate>
   <dc:creator>Edward Buker</dc:creator>
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   <title>Driving Lights</title>
   <link>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328485804/</link>
   <comments>http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1328485804/#num1</comments>
   <description><![CDATA[If you can believe it, I turned my head lights on for the first time since we bought the coach.&nbsp;&nbsp;What can I say, I'm retrired and don't like driving after dark.<br /><br />Anyway, I have a switch for Driving lights that I suspect are the two small round ones at the bottom.&nbsp;&nbsp;However, nothing works.&nbsp;&nbsp;I did find out the headlights won't come on unless the engine is running and they seem nice and bright but nothing for driving lights.&nbsp;&nbsp;I reckon the bulbs could be burned out and will check those and it looks like they should come on when the headlamp switch is in the parking light position.&nbsp;&nbsp;I base that on the rocker swich light.<br /><br />Also, did note that the taillights are really wimpy...not much light at all.<br /><br />Any thoughts would be appreciated.]]></description>
   <pubDate>Sun, 5 Feb 2012 18:50:04</pubDate>
   <dc:creator>bluwtr49</dc:creator>
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